As someone experienced in betta fish care, I have gained deep knowledge and rich experience in betta fish health and lifestyle over a long period of time. I am able to efficiently handle every aspect, from the daily care requirements of the fish to their natural behavior, food, and water quality control. How to take care of betta fish is not only a hobby but also a valuable example of responsibility for me, which has taught me important lessons in patience, regularity, and responsibility.
Below are the various stages of betta fish care in detail from my experience:
Tank Selection
Tank Size: An adult betta is 2.5–3 inches long, so each betta ideally needs at least a 5-gallon (about 19-liter) tank. Although many people keep bettas in small containers, tanks smaller than 5 gallons are uncomfortable for the fish and can have adverse effects on their health. At least 4 gallons of new water should be added for each new betta.
Tank Lid: Betta fish sometimes jump out of the water, and many people have cats or other pets in their homes. If these pets roam around the aquarium, the betta may jump out of fear, so a lid is essential.
Bed Selection for Betta Fish: Small, soft rock beds are good for bettas because they are easy to clean and help maintain stable water quality. Add a 1–2-inch layer of gravel to the bottom of the tank. Be sure to wash the gravel before putting it in the tank (do not use soap).
Many people like sand because it looks nice and natural. However, it takes a little care to keep the sand clean in the tank. Sand dust is not much of a problem if you use a filter. In my experience, it is better not to keep sand because sand is not easy to clean.
Setting Water Parameters
Water Temperature: Water temperature is very important for the health and normal life of betta fish. Betta fish do well in warm water, and a temperature of 76°F to 80°F (24°C to 27°C) is ideal. Temperatures below 74°F (23°C) or above 82°F (28°C) can negatively affect their health.
You will need a heater with sufficient power to keep the temperature stable. A 5-gallon tank will need at least a 20-watt heater. Keep a thermometer in the tank to check the temperature daily, which will help you determine if it is stable.
Water changes: Change 25%-50% of the water every week. This reduces ammonia and other harmful chemicals. When adding new water, ensure it is the same temperature as the rest of the water in the tank. Never change more than 50% or all of the water in the tank at once, as fish have difficulty adjusting to new water, which can cause stress.
Water pH: The pH level of the water is very important for betta fish. pH is a measure of the acidity or alkalinity of the water and affects water quality, which is essential for the health of betta fish.
The ideal pH level for betta fish is 6.5-7.5. If the pH level is too high (above 8) or too low (below 6), the fish’s health can be negatively affected. If the pH changes, fish can experience respiratory problems, stress, and reduced immunity. Necessary measures must be taken to lower the pH if needed.
Ammonia: Ammonia is a significant problem in a betta fish tank, as it is very harmful to the fish. It is a toxic compound produced in the tank water from fish waste, uneaten food, and decaying plant material.
High levels of ammonia damage the respiratory cells of the fish, making it difficult for them to breathe. The ideal ammonia level is zero ppm. If it is higher than the ideal level, measures must be taken to reduce it.
Nitrite: The ideal level for nitrite is also zero ppm, as high levels can be quite harmful. Elevated nitrite levels stress the fish, reducing their immunity. Nitrite reduces the oxygen-carrying capacity of the fish’s blood, causing breathing problems.
Ammonia breaks down into nitrite in the nitrogen cycle. Fish waste, leftover food, and decaying plant material produce ammonia, which bacteria break down and convert into nitrite.
Note:
- Use a water conditioner/de-chlorinator to remove harmful chlorine and chloramines, making tap water safe for betta fish.
- Use a kit to test the water for pH, nitrate, ammonia, and nitrite.
Tank Decoration
Decorations
Plants: Create a good environment for betta fish by providing a resting place under the shade of live plants. Plants also act as natural filters by absorbing nitrates and ammonia, helping to keep the water clean.
However, the plants or decorations should not be sharp, as they can tear the betta’s fins. Suitable plants for bettas include java fern, Anubias, Marimo Moss Ball, Water Sprite, Betta Bulb, etc.
Hiding Places: The tank should have some hiding places, such as small caves or snuggling spots with floating covers and other items where bettas can rest.
Proper Feeding
Type of Food:
Bettas are carnivorous fish, so they need to be fed a variety of meat-based fish foods, including flakes, pellets, and freeze-dried bloodworms. Before feeding frozen or dry food, soak it in water for about 15–20 minutes. Once the food expands, feed it to the betta fish in small pieces that they can digest easily.
When feeding frozen or dry food, keep in mind that the food expands by absorbing moisture in the stomach, which can cause constipation, bladder problems, and other issues when it enters the fish’s digestive system. In addition to these, special betta pellets and flake foods are available, which are very beneficial for betta fish.
Feeding Amount: Feed 1-2 times a day in small amounts, so they can eat within 2-3 minutes. Overfeeding should be avoided, as it can cause bloating, digestive problems, and obesity. Uneaten food can rot at the bottom of the tank and pollute the water.
Proper Lighting
Natural Light: Direct sunlight should not be allowed into the tank, as it can quickly raise the water temperature to dangerous levels and cause unwanted algae growth. Betta fish tanks should be kept away from windows; otherwise, sunlight will increase the temperature and promote unwanted algae growth.
Artificial Light: Betta fish prefer dim light, but the light should not be kept on all day. It is necessary to provide 8–12 hours of light during the day and a period of darkness at night. This maintains the natural life cycle of the fish.
Tank Filter Installation
A filter system should be added to the betta fish tank because the filter will help keep the water clean. In addition to keeping the tank clean, the filter removes harmful toxins such as ammonia from the aquarium water and adds oxygen to the water so that the fish can breathe. The filter should be powerful enough to process all the water in the tank at least four times an hour. Choose a filter that properly controls the water flow rate.
Mate Selection
Betta fish prefer to be alone, especially male bettas, as they can fight. However, some small, peaceful fish, such as cory catfish, nerite snails, ghost shrimp, neon tetras, amber tetras, and African dwarf frogs, can be kept with them.
Clean the aquarium
Clean the decorations: Carefully remove all decorations from the tank. Scrub the decorations with an old toothbrush to remove algae, rinse them well with clean water, and dry them thoroughly before returning them to the tank.
Clean the tank walls: Use a toothbrush or scraper to scrub the algae from the tank walls. You can easily clean the algae from the tank.
Clean the filter: Filters will vary depending on the type, model, and manufacturer. It is best to follow the cleaning instructions included with the filter. This will help you clean it easily and properly.
Remove decomposed waste: To remove decomposed waste, slowly and carefully clean the gravel by pushing the tube of the gravel vacuum down to remove fish feces, uneaten food pieces, and fallen leaves. Repeat this until the bottom of the tank is clear of decomposed waste. Care should be taken while cleaning to avoid harming the fish.
Note: Do not use soap when cleaning the aquarium. Clean it with distilled white vinegar or any aquarium cleaner available on the market.
Health Check
Activity Observation: Betta fish are usually active, and their fins are spread out nicely. If their behavior changes, such as becoming less active, folding their fins, moving sluggishly, or not eating much, it can be a sign of illness. Common betta fish diseases include fin rot and ich.
Fin Rot: This is a bacterial disease that can be caused by Aeromonas, Pseudomonas, and Vibrio bacteria. It infects the fins, tail, and body of the fish. Symptoms include fin rot, tearing or breaking, and discoloration of the fins. It can be treated by applying salt, tea tree oil, and antibiotics.
Ich: Ich is caused by the protozoan parasite Ichthyophthirius multifiliis. Symptoms of ich disease include visible small white spots on the body or fins of the fish, fins sticking, excessive flashing, and loss of appetite. Treatment involves using aquarium salt, changing the water daily, and applying antiparasitic medication.
